As we approach land, everybody is getting really excited. This is the first landing on what actually is Antarctic mainland. Several thousands of kilometers away from the actual hart of the continent, still, to us it feels as if we reached the most southern land. Temperatures have gone down considerately, the world around us all turned all white. Just a couple of giant mountains are able to show their bare solid rock, pushing their pieks through the enormous layers of compressed ice and snow, reminding us that we really still are on Planet Earth. Below us the seemingly endless, deep blue Southern Ocean.
Although clouded, the water is calm, reflecting perfectly what is above the surface. A colony of gentoo penguins welcome us with their loud noises as does the penetrating guano smell of the penguin colony. Immense glaciers surround the boat. From time to time there is the cracking sound of falling ice, causing waves to sweep up the beach and scare away both penguins and tourists. From above, the ship looks like an ant. Ready to be swallowed by the white surrounding it. Deep cracks in the huge glacier ice mass show us the most incredible nuances of blue, contrasting beautifully with the clear greenish turquoise water in the bay below us.
Melting pack-ice is delaying our journey to the next destination, Paradise Bay. It is fascinating though to see how we manoeuver through the field of floating icebergs and unreliable growlers. Slowly and very cautiously as we do not want to get hit by a block of ice.
Scontorp Cove is covered in clouds when we arrive. Zodiacs are lowered for a boat tour through this breathtaking glacier paradise. Even the sun comes out to shine its light on the artistic ice sculptures nature has created here. A leopard seal detains us for quite a while. Lying on his iceberg, breathing heavily, he does not even seem to note our presence or the sound of clicking cameras. As the top-predator of warm-blooded prey, they are feared by both penguins and young crabeater seals. We spot a lonely Adelie penguin, all alone on his huge iceberg.
Another abandoned Argentine station crosses our path: Almirante Brown. Years ago, the station doctor facing the prospect of another long winter ahead, burnt the place down and staff was evacuated. Nowadays gentoo penguins and sheathbills are occupying the place.
In the morning we set sail for Lemaire Channel. This channel is a real challenge for sailors, as the winds on both sides are variable and very unpredictable. But we will try, so preparations are made to set the sails. Wind is getting stronger now. When we approach the steep rock formations bordering the narrow channel, a watch is send up the rigs. The captain navigates us cautiously through the thick ice field blocking the access to the channel. The views are incredible, and the icy wind fiercely blows us in the face. We all absorb the image, hoping it will be remembered in detail. Very aware of the fact that, until now, no photo has been able to get even close to the reality we see around us.
We are on our way to the most southern point of our trip: Vernadsky Station on the Argentine Islands. This Ukrainian station has become famous for its discovery of the hole in the ozone layer. Scientists lead us through the vicinities; their English has a very heavy, but pleasant Russian accent. It feels like we landed in the sixties. Time seems to have stopped here. Outside, a tank with the Vernadsky logo: two palm trees and a tropical sun. The surgery room is filled with images of the holy virgin. The next door is the gym. On the walls there are posters of women, scarcely dressed. We end in the recreation area: the bar. Vodka is a home-made brew here, Igor tells us proudly. And it is served in large quantities. They also have a tourist shop and mail facilities. Eight weeks it will take to get it to Europe….The Ukrainian stamps are well worth it though!
30 November 2008
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